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Stepping off the flat plain of the spillway and into the broken rock of the canyon, I cant help but stare, awestruck, at the sheer enormity of it all. My father, a geologist, is almost giddy the area is rife with fault lines, fossils, and other features that are normally buried under the surface and much harder to see. But all has been laid bare by the force of the water, and only naked limestone is left. Crossing the first ledge, I can see a small pool just below me full of the irridescent blue-green water that I normally see only in caves. As I near the water, the only sounds I can hear are the running spring below me, and the gentle breeze above. The waterfall that gushes over a ledge and into an emerald pool below gleams like a river of diamonds in the sunlight before cascading down the bare rock. I realize that Im not carrying a watch, or a cell phone, or anything to tie me to the rest of the world, and Im happy about it. I notice that apart from the occasional algae and maybe a little moss, theres no life here. No vegetation has laid claim to the canyons floor, and no animals seem to be around, either. Just like the population that lives near the river, nature is getting a chance to start over in this canyon. The slate has been wiped clean, so to speak, and now well get a chance to see the exact process that nature follows to populate new ground. Theres so much potential here, in the face of so much destruction. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which controls the area, has closed the canyon to the general public until it can decide what its long-term plans for it are. It will most likely become a restricted nature preserve, like Honey Creek near Guadalupe River state park, accessible only with a guide. As I scale another sheer cliff of loose rock, I can see why this is a necessary step. Water is absolutely amazing. What other force could bring about so much destruction, yet leave such astonishing beauty in its wake? Growing up, I felt a bond with the river I spent countless summer days fishing on its banks, or swimming around with my friends looking for crawfish under the rocks that littered its bed. Even today, I can tell you exactly what the contours of the riverbed look like from my house upstream to Canyon Dam. The Guadalupe was more than a home to me it was a friend, a companion, a refuge from the worries of the rest of the world. I knew that I was lucky to live there, and enjoyed every moment. When I came back from Montana last summer in a pouring rainstorm at the end of June, all I wanted to do was come home so I could watch the fireflies, meet my old neighbors at the annual Fourth of July party, and eat barbecue and shoot off fireworks in the soft, silver-blue light of early evening as the fog rolled off the river. Instead, my family was ordered, along with the rest of the neighborhood, to evacuate on July 4. I went to sleep that night knowing that water was coming over the spillway, listening to the sounds of a violent thunderstorm, and hoping for the best. Not only did I not get my barbecue, I missed out on my fireworks, the fireflies, my neighbors, and everything else that I value about summer evenings on the rivers banks. And when I saw the river 6 feet high in my house, I didnt know what to believe. How could the bubbling childhood companion that was such an important part of my life do this to me? What the hell is going on? As I continue my trek down the canyon and across another ledge near the halfway point, I look down and see a hundred foot long pool of emerald water, probably 20 feet deep, shining in the seclusion of the canyon like an oversized jewel. In one end, the walls are curved inward toward the top, creating a small cave-like indention just big enough for a person to stand in. As the wind ripples the waters surface, reflections of the sun scatter across the roof of the cave, the same way they scatter across the roof of my room in late afternoon, when the sun reaches the right point in the sky and bounces its rays off the river and through my window. It is a comforting sight, one that reminds me that the beauty that was swept out of my mind by muddy brown floodwaters last summer is still there, and in fact, has been there all along. |
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